SUSPENSION FOOT BRIDGE: THEN AND NOW

It was in 1979 that friends visited the Tsitsikamma Coastal National Park – as it was called then [it is now part of the Garden Route National Park] – and sent us a post card depicting this view of the Suspension Foot Bridge over the Storms River. The card has faded over time, yet shows the spectacular view of the bridge from the path that winds through the forest.

We had not yet visited the area and were taken by their description of it: We are enjoying this very beautiful place and are sure you would too. Even in rainy weather it is a lovely place to be. We were living in Pietermaritzburg in KwaZulu-Natal at the time and it wasn’t until we were living in Mmabatho several years later that we made our way down there – and fell in love with the place! So much so that we have returned many times – most recently in October last year.

Although this photograph is not taken from the original perspective, you can see how the area has been developed over the past 41 years – especially the footbridge. The original one is still there, but has been augmented by others.

Our friends continued: Unfortunately the Otter Trail is fully booked but we are enjoying the shorter walks. Great bird life!

How right they were too. There are a number of interesting walks along the coastline and through the natural forest that hugs the steep slopes of the mountains. Every time we visit there I am astounded by the number and variety of birds we see – even around the open camp sites. I have written elsewhere about walking the Otter Trail, which I did a couple of years after moving to Grahamstown.

As an aside: the postage stamp on this postcard is 3c. During the intervening years postage has increased to R5,34. Given how dysfunctional our postal service is, I wonder if people bother to send post cards anymore!

THE OTTER TRAIL 23 – 27 FEBRUARY 1990

Having recently visited Nature’s Valley, Dries (https://dewetswild.com/2021/02/05/natures-valley-garden-route-national-park/) asked me to share my experience of walking the Otter Trail with eleven other women in 1990. Sadly, I did not own a camera at the time.

DAY 1

Our group started walking the Otter Trail at 12h30 – it felt wonderful to be walking along a route with such commanding views of the sea!

We passed over a strandloper midden and stopped to look at Guano Cave – which goes in an incredibly long way – and reached the waterfall at 2 p.m. It is strong flowing and the river is full! We all stripped and enjoyed a glorious swim for about an hour before leaving for Ngubu, the first hut. Along the way we saw cormorants, oyster catchers and I nearly stepped on a puff adder on the path! We paused to watch a seal swimming in the sea.

After settling into the huts there was plenty of time to explore the very rocky ‘beach’. The sea is full of thick, dirty foam, but we managed to find a reasonably clear area to swim in. The seawater wasn’t nearly as cold as the waterfall had been ‘though it took some getting into! Where there isn’t foam, the water is so clear we could see the fish swimming at our feet.

It is so peaceful to sit alone on the rocks and watch the seagulls, the last rays of the sun catch the white foam and to listen to the thunder of the waves beyond the rocks.

The night sky is magnificent too: the Southern Cross almost obscured by the Milky Way such as we seldom see. Another beautiful phenomenon to watch are the phosphorescent waves breaking in the dark, once the sun has set ‘into’ the sea.

DAY 2

Woke at five, but didn’t rise until six and then walked down to the rocky beach to enjoy the solitude of the sea. Left the hut at seven and crossed the Kleinbosrivier at 10h25, where we enjoyed a brief swim. Here one simply must go upstream to swim in the long deep pool which ends in a narrow channel leading up to a cascade of water.  It is like swimming in stout – dark water with dirty white foam on top.

There is a reasonably steep climb up from the river followed by a most pleasant walk through the forest, where it is good to see Saffron trees again; to inhale that clean, damp, earthy smell of the leaf litter; to see bracket fungi in a variety of colours. There is the constant booming of the sea and the high-pitched sound of cicadas to accompany us. We left our packs at the Blue Bay turnoff before swimming and lunching at Blue Bay at about 12h30, watched by two seagulls and a cormorant. There we enjoyed a long and lazy lunchtime while the tide came in, before leaving at 14h30 up a very steep slope (about twenty minutes of uphill plodding). The reward was a wonderful bird’s eye view of Blue Bay!

I kept my eyes peeled once we were in the open for any sighting of dolphins or seals – no luck. We followed another steep downhill before reaching Scott’s Hut situated next to the Geelboshout River with a private beach.

The weather has been clear and sunny with no wind. We bathed in the river on arrival to wash off the salty water. I should have brought more teabags! My collapsible water bottle is useful as the water tank here is empty.

At about 19h00 some of us walked up the right hand tributary of the Geelhoutbos River to see the most exquisite cascades, one after the other. What a pity we discovered it so late for we felt like going ever upwards. The setting was magical, like something from Lord of the Rings: trees, water cascades, deep pools, cycads … magical! A MUST!

DAY 3

We all woke at five and left Scott’s Hut at half past six: a beautiful walk through ferns before a really steep climb. Then walked along the top of the rocks and crossed the Elandsbos River at 07h30. We used our survival bags even though the river was shallow as we were unsure of the sandy bottom. This time we had only half an hour for breakfast as most of the party were concerned about crossing the Lottering River, especially as the water levels are high.

Today’s walk would have been more pleasant had there been time to explore the rock pools. The path is not particularly good and is very steep in places – not memorable walking, although we did see dassies, oystercatchers and seagulls along the way. There was lots of evidence of otter too as well as holes dug by porcupines – saw a porcupine quill along the path.

We reached the Lottering River at 10h15 and crossed it easily – waded through sans shoes. Weather-wise it has been another beautifully clear, calm day – very pleasant – and so a group of us decided to laze on the river bank before tackling the last section to Oakhurst Huts. These overlook the sea in a very exposed position with no natural shade and are reached by a path through the forest, from where one has a good view of the channels in the river as the tide comes in.

Because we arrived at our destination so early, we spent about three hours enjoying the sandy beach, swimming in the river and exploring upstream for as far as the infestation of wattles would allow. I saw a beautiful otter print and caught a glimpse of a Knysna Loerie flying into the forest, the sun brilliant on its wings.

At Oakhurst two cormorants were standing sentinel on a large rock at the edge of the sea, diving down now and then to catch a fish. The sea is still characterised by the dirty scum. Can it really be dead plankton? Some may come down with the rivers for at every river and stream we have crossed the rooibos-coloured water has carried with it flecks and bubbles of foam which build up in the quieter pools. We have obviously become accustomed to the cold water for the temperature is no longer cause for comment.

DAY 4

We left Oakhurst just before six in order to reach the Bloukrans River at low tide. Today’s walking was varied and on the whole very pleasant. We stopped for a brief breakfast at the Witels. There seemed no need to rush and so we stopped off at several good viewing sites along the way and found a shady area for a leisurely lunch. The long stretches through the forest were so pleasant: I could hear a lot of birds, saw a variety of flowers and leaf shapes and loved the patterns made by the lichen on the trees as well as the different colours of the leaf litter. We also passed through areas of fynbos with a variety of Ericas in bloom.

Fortunately we reached the Bloukrans River as the tide was turning and so we could still wade across. There were lots of fresh otter spoor along the beach and the edge of the river. Again it was wonderful exploring upstream – must remember to leave packs well above the tidal level as the water rises quickly.

The André Huts cannot be seen from above at all, in fact not until you reach them! It is important to collect logs for firewood at the top of the path (not far from the turnoff to the ranger’s house) before descending to the huts. A puzzling sight has been the number of shells and shell grit high above sea-level – sure these are not all strandloper middens or they would have had to have been very athletic strandlopers! Rounded stones, such as are found all along the seashore are also to be found on top of the cliffs in the fynbos where it is sandy too – uplifting?

DAY 5

It was sheer pleasure to wake after six and to lie in bed reading.  We enjoyed a leisurely start to the day, reading on the beach and exploring rock pools before embarking on the torturous-looking climb to the top. Walking through the fynbos at the end of a glorious trip made me want to hold onto each of the experiences: beautiful views, the smells, the sounds … all too soon we would be hurtled back to the hustle and bustle of our everyday lives.

As we got onto the beach at the end at Nature’s Valley, we all stripped for an oulaas kaalgat swim in the sea – not realising there was a lone fisherman on the rocks who got an eyeful of twelve women prancing about in the nude.  Doubtless he had a real fishy story to tell when he got home!

EXPLORING AT TSITSIKAMMA

Apart from the boardwalk to the Storms River Mouth, walks through the forest, and swimming at the small sandy beach, there are a number of other things to explore at Tsitsikamma. These pictures come from one short walk to the rocks near the start of the Otter Trail.

The cracks, ledges and striations on the rocks beg for exploration.

Small stones, worn smooth by the action of the sea, tiny bits of wood, seaweed and shells also call for attention.

The patterns on this shell proved to be irresistible.

There is driftwood aplenty.

You may have noticed a tin on the bottom right hand side of the first picture. This is what it looks like from nearby. Where did it come from? How did it land up in the ocean? How long has it been there, being tossed by the waves?

Obviously long enough to have become a home for a colony of molluscs.

A WALK THROUGH THE COASTAL FOREST

The walk through the coastal forest at Tsitsikamma to the Storms River starts at the little beach.

A lovely collection of light blue agapanthus flowers grow near the first waterfall.

One gets interesting views of the coast and of other paths through the forest trees.

Steps made from plastic wood make the steep ups and downs easier to manage and help to protect the forest floor from the hundreds of feet that pass this way every day.

Moss-covered trees abound in the forest.

The first glimpse of the mouth of the Storms River way below the path.

There is a rocky beach at the end of the walk.

And a series of suspension bridges to cross on the way back!

Note: click on the photographs for a larger view.