BATHURST AND AN EXPERIENCE AT THE PIG AND WHISTLE

Last week a group of us met in the nearby hamlet of Bathurst in the Eastern Cape to retrace the steps of a tour we last did in about 2014. This included visiting visited the 191 year-old Methodist Church:

This was followed by the St. John’s Anglican Church (the oldest unaltered church in the country), both of which have played a role in providing protection for the inhabitants of Bathurst and the surrounding farms against the marauding Xhosas during the 1800s:

These churches have both got very interesting cemeteries containing the graves of a number of people who played a significant part in the economic and social development of this part of the world.

It was very interesting to visit the Powder Magazine further up the hill from the churches. The original stone building is still intact even though the surrounding mud walls have long since eroded. I have visited it many times, yet this was the first time I had been able to see inside this historic building – very tiny indeed – to note how thick the stone walls are and to inspect the curved ceiling:

As lunch time approached, some members of the party decided to picnic at the Toposcope – also an interesting place to visit. Situated on a hill with a marvellous view of the surrounding area, it contains plaques indicating the ships that brought the 1820 Settlers to the Eastern Cape, the names of the significant parties and the direction in which the various families were apportioned land:

Three of us decided to lunch at the historic country hotel known as The Pig and Whistle which is reputed to be the oldest licensed pub in the country. While I may return to the other sites I have mentioned in other posts, this is where I wish to tell you about our unusual experience. You may have experienced something similar, so do tell if you have.

We secured a table on the veranda, where we could enjoy the rather brisk breeze as well as the view. A limited menu was offered and we quickly ordered our food – typical pub fare, so nothing fancy. This was at one o’ clock. We explained that we needed to meet the rest of the party at two o’ clock. We drank our soft drinks and watched the passersby pass by … saw some patrons receiving their plates of food … checked on the progress of our order. Each time we were assured it was ‘nearly ready’ … by this time other members of our party had driven down the hill for coffee. Our plates of food eventually arrived at ten minutes to two. I explained it would be impossible for us to down our food in five minutes and asked for it to be placed in take-away containers. They were happy to oblige except, said the manageress, “we don’t have plastic knives and forks”. I asked if we could take the metal tableware already placed on our table – she agreed.

Once our visit to the Toposcope was over, we enjoyed our lunch as a picnic, using the back of our bakkie as a make-shift table. We took the cutlery back to the hotel after we had eaten: they expressed no surprise at all – I imagine they simply assumed we would do so.

Note that we have had wonderful meals and good service from this establishment before.

26 thoughts on “BATHURST AND AN EXPERIENCE AT THE PIG AND WHISTLE

  1. What do you mean by “unaltered church?” No renovations made to it, or is that a doctrinal term in South Africa? My wife and I had a similar restaurant experience at Olive Garden, definitely not of the pub variety. She had to get back to her school for a meeting, but we thought we had plenty of time with an hour and a half and only a 10-min. drive back to the school. Waited 15 min. to get our drink order taken, a half hour before our order was taken. After waiting another half hour, we left without being served. We’ve never been back.

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    • The church has undergone no structural changes since it was built 🙂 Thank you for your food anecdote. We contemplated leaving sans food, but felt sorry for the waitress who had no say in how fast the kitchen staff could work.

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  2. In one way a delay in getting food can be a good thing. At least it probably means it is actually being cooked rather than just being taken out of a freezer and reheated,

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    • You are right on that score – the food was both fresh and delicious, even though it had cooled somewhat by the time we got to eat it.

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    • Bathurst has a number of interesting places of historical significance to see. The Pig and Whistle is usually a good place to eat too. I smiled at the arrival of about twenty motor cyclists as we were leaving and wondered how long they would have to wait for their food on that day 🙂

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    • I remember hearing about that when I was at university in Pietermaritzburg. The popular – largely the refuge of students – pub in our town is on its last legs. A shift in the dynamics of the population and different social expectations may be an underlying cause.

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  3. I am fascinated with the establishment not having plastic-ware and then lending you the cutlery. I am trying to imagine a restaurant where I live doing that, and I don’t know that they would. Maybe if they knew their customers. I know of towns in rural areas that could happen, because the restaurant owners would know you. And know how to find you and their cutlery.
    It sounds fun that you were able to make a picnic out of the food delay. Turning a possible frustration into a lark!

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    • This is a really tiny hamlet. If you blink you would miss most of it and this particular establishment is the kind of place where visitors would not usually be in a hurry. They did not know us at all, but simply trusted we would do as we said we would 🙂

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  4. Fascinating history and excellent story about the long wait and how you and the manageress managed the outcome. Such long waits don’t usually end so well for us. I tend to get cross 🙂

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  5. Lovely pictures, Anne. Once we waited and waited at a restaurant for our order to materialise. Apparently some mix up happened and they simply forgot our order! Not that my friend and I minded. We were meeting after long and had nowhere to go. The men though were not too pleased! 😀

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